Day 10 in the UK: An Ending and a Beginning

Day 10 in the UK: An Ending and a Beginning. Today was another transit day but also the day my Hadrian's Wall journey came to a nice conclusion. I left Chollerford for Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, the end point of the wall and trail. Getting out of Chollerford was tricky this morning with both train and bus strikes. This made it busy for taxis so after calling the 5th company, a taxi was dispatched for me. A fortune later, I was finally in Newcastle. 

I dropped my bags at the hotel and headed to Segedunum, the fort at the other end of the trail. It's not as impressive as the other forts I visited but it is the conclusion to the trail, so worth a visit to the site, and the gift shop! 

After Segedunum, I took the Metro to finally meet up with Tania and Josh at Newcastle Cathedral which honours St. Nicholas. Yup, that St. Nick aka Santa Claus. The cathedral was beautiful and had great architectural elements. Then, off to Newcastle Castle. Now that was cool and had amazing views of the city. 

At this point, my poor feet had had enough so it was back to the hotel where I could rest and relax. Well, after laundry and a shower and dinner. 

It was such a busy, on-the-go day that I only had breakfast at the hotel and then takeaway dinner. But it was worth it. From Fat Hippo, I had the Semi burger (Buttermilk chicken, American cheese, cheesy garlic bacon crumb, lettuce, pickles + garlic butter mayo) with waffle fries and an added purple slaw. Totally delicious and super filling! 

And dinner's entertainment was watching 80s music videos, in honour of Stephanie's 40th birthday party which I'm missing today! Happy birthday my dear friend! 

So, a day to end the hike portion of my holiday, and to begin the rest of my holiday! 6 more days to come!

 

Day 9 in the UK: Rest and Recover

Day 9 in the UK: Rest and Recover. After a very challenging few days, I started today rested and refreshed. It was the first night since I got into the UK that I slept well, completely unaided. I think a part of that was because I knew I didn't have to get up and walk all day long in pain. Instead, I woke up feeling like the day was open for anything. 

So after a full English breakfast at the hotel, I ventured into Hexham, the closest town, to check out the bus schedule for tomorrow. I travel to Newcastle but of course, there will be a train strike. When I arrived, I found out about the bus strike that will also occur. So tomorrow, the plan is now to hire a taxi rather than fight for a spot on the only coach running to Newcastle. 

While in Hexham, I also wandered around. I found a market where I picked up some fresh Scottish raspberries and strawberries. And I dropped off my extra (and now unnecessary) trail mix and fruit bars at the Hexham Abbey, for the local food bank. 

Then I hopped back on the AD 122 bus (named for the year Hadrian's Wall began construction) to go to Housesteads Fort. This is the best preserved fort along the wall, most likely because of its location perched at the top of the hill. I had one more hill to climb on this journey. So, up I went. 

The fort is amazing and very exposed... it was so windy! I could also see what I would have had to walk yesterday if I had continued. 

Since getting into Chollerford by bus, I've spoken with many walkers and they all grumbled about the horrible walking conditions on yesterday's stage. Lots of hills and then lots of miles of boggy fields and aggressive bulls. These walkers all called their walks early. Hearing this, I honestly feel like my decision was best! 

So after a tragic day yesterday, today I feel at peace. I was able to explore the best forts (Vindolanda and Housesteads), I've been congratulated by fellow walkers on my accomplishment from Bowness-on-Solway to Sycamore Gap, and as awful as it is, I was able to witness but also grieve for Sycamore Gap Tree before the police and media descended. 

So today, I feel refreshed and content. I recognize the amazing feat I've accomplished, having walked the most challenging but the most beautiful section of Hadrian's Wall. 

I write this with a happy heart, looking over a peaceful scene, enjoying a cider and fish & chips. Cheers to Hadrian's Wall Walk, and now I have 7 more days in the UK to #EAThikeLOVE Thanks for joining me on this adventure!

 

Day 8 in the UK: Devastation

Day 5 of Hadrian's Wall walk. It's been a devastating day. I woke up from not a great sleep. My feet ached all night long, telling me they had enough. 

So I decided, Sycamore Gap would be the glorious end to my Hadrian's Wall journey. I've covered 68.8km (43 miles) in 30 hours and 17 minutes. Over half of the official distance. I have a huge sense of accomplishment, especially that I covered the most difficult but also the most scenic sections of the trail. 

So Sycamore Gap was going to be my grand finale. But it was anything but. Not sure if it has made international news but last night, in the middle of a storm, someone cut down the beautiful, majestic and iconic Sycamore Tree. I thought it had to be 100 years old but some reports are saying she was 300 years old. Regardless of age, this magnificent icon of the region, of the trail, and for so many people, was brutally murdered while the world slept. And I openly wept for her loss. 

When I was preparing for this journey, Sycamore Gap was the one part that was recognizeable to anyone. I'd just have to say, the sycamore tree between walls, or the tree from Robin Hood, and people knew what I was talking about. It has become a symbol for the trail. But it was so much more. 

I reached Sycamore Gap early morning, when a forestry official had just found the destruction. I was there when locals and hikers stumbled upon the carnage. It was so emotional to talk to others about their memories and experiences with Sycamore Gap tree. It's just devastating for North East England, but also for so many others. 

So, my journey across England along Hadrian's Wall ended on a shattered and devastating note. It was difficult to pull the pin. Just as it was difficult to witness such horrifying violence to an icon. So today did not go how I had planned. Just as the last 5 days hasn't gone to plan. But I'm now in Chollerford, I'm going to give my body the rest it needs. And then I move on to plan C for the rest of my time in the UK. #eathikeLOVE RIP Sycamore Gap Tree

It has been a very difficult day but I also feel a sense of community. So many people from all over the world have been united in our grief and shock. So that has been a powerful moment to witness and be a small part of. I am now comfortably settled in a hotel for 2 nights, so that will give me time to process, heal, and come up with Plan C.

- - -

The afternoon today was spent at Vindolanda Fort, one of the most complete fort settlements along Hadrian's Wall. They have absolutely amazing finds as well as a reconstruction of a turret. There was also an active dig going on. 

So this afternoon had moments of joy. And I met more lovely people.... it's amazing what happens with just a smile or a comment. I had a lovely conversation with Roy and Jo from Sussex about travel and England. Those small interactions are so fulfilling. 

Dinner was a delicious sausage and caramelized onion quiche with dressed leaves, coleslaw and beetroot chutney, and a ginger crumble square and mint aero square. 

I'm content and on the way to healing this slightly shattered soul. Tomorrow is another day. 

 

Day 7 in the UK: Incredibly scenic but oh, the hills!

Day 4 of Hadrian's Wall walk. What a doozy! I left Gilsland early this morning because there were reports of a bad storm moving over the trail and I wanted to get ahead of it. But I was smart, I asked for a ride down to the start of the trail to avoid an extra mile of downhill walking. Thanks to Astin for the lift! 

Then I was off, walking along the wall and taking in the sights. The first bit was much of the same from yesterday, through fields and over small crests. I walked with a local for a bit and spoke to an archeologist on a recent site. It was all so pretty and I was feeling good. This was Cumbria. 

But then I got into Northumberland and it's a whole new level. It's rugged and wild. And the hills. Oh my gosh. The hills. They never end! Now, I did have the opportunity to see stretches of original Hadrian's Wall, built by the Romans in AD 122. So that was amazing. And the views in all directions are just so big and immemse that it's hard not to feel so insignificant and small. 

But the hills. They were a real challenge. And completely unexpected. In all my preparations and reading, I knew this was a hilly day but nothing prepared me for the mental and physical challenge of finishing this stage. Just when I thought, this has to be the last peak, the highest.... nope, I'd crest and see another 3 in front of me. When I thought those would be peaks in a few days.... nope, that was part of today's walk. This walk is a real challenge. And it took everything in me to get today done. 

But the views are spectacular and it felt amazing to be looking out and seeing miles and miles of land in all directions. 

At the end of today's walk, I finished at the highest point of the whole trail (345 meters above sea level), amongst the cleanest air in England, and I have covered (as per the guide book, not my Garmin) 65.6 km or 41 miles. So almost half the whole trail. 

But my body is starting to show the mileage I've put it through. I have asked my body to go just a bit further so many times over the past 4 days. And it has done it. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. But my worry now is that I'll ask one too many times and my body won't be able to respond. My feet, not just my blistered toes, are showing stress. My ankle (injured 5 years ago and never healed properly) is holding up but barely. And I'm struggling to stay positive in the face of another 4 days of more of the same but in reverse (so many hills, then walking along a highway, then through a city). 

I'm realizing now my dream was to walk Hadrian’s Wall and I can say I've done that. So, from here on out, each day will be an opportunity to assess where I'm at and whether I want to keep walking. Now, it's taken many tears to get to this point (Mom and Dad can attest to this.... they always get my weepy calls when I finish a day and have nothing left to give) but I would regret pushing too far and getting injured. As I said, this trail is the real deal. And it's taken a lot of perseverance and grit and heart to get this far. If I can just get to Sycamore Gap (which is a mile away), I'd be content and happy with my journey! 

I do appreciate all the support and encouragement as I took each step. It just feels like I'm close to making a hard but mature decision. I'll keep you posted! In the meantime, know that I've loved sharing this journey with all of you!

 

Day 6 in the UK: Finally, the Wall!

Good morning from Walton, Cumbria, England! (And side note, doesn't this totally look like Mr. Darcy should be walking towards me any minute!?) swoon

Day 3 of Hadrian's Wall walk was a roller coaster of emotion. I started off with a wonderful breakfast and a packed lunch for the road. On my way out of Walton, I stopped at the church and spoke with some workers who all recommended a visit to Lanercost Priory. 

So I headed out of Walton and within 5 minutes, my blisters were announcing themselves. So, of course the logical response, ignore it and keep moving. 

I did venture off course to Lanercost Priory and it was.... alright. It's cool that it was made of wall stone so that was my first sighting. But I really just wanted to get moving so I hiked back up the hill to the trail and then I spotted it.... THE WALL! My first sighting and I was so excited. I had walked 15 hours to finally see the wall! 

From then on, I was never far away from the Wall. Some parts are only a few courses high, but others, much more substantial. And you can see where they have removed some stones over the years to build fences between fields. 

So today was a lot more of walking through fields but this time, following the wall. Now, when they built the wall in AD 122, they built with the best defenses in mind. So that means turrets or milecastles will be at the top of hills. I bet you can guess what that means? A lot of up and down for me and my aching feet. I was doing pretty good just ignoring and blocking out the persistent pain that comes from a third day of walking. 

And then I hit a wall. Not Hadrian's but that pesky figurative wall where you question what the heck you're doing. So I was wallowing under a tree and seriously questioning my sanity when my walking companions from the morning (Laura and Julie) came across me. Now, I had other people to keep pace with and to talk to (which helped distract me from the brink of misery). 

So we trudged up and down hills together, until we got to Birdoswald Fort. This is the first fort of our walk so we went in to explore. But very quickly I realized I should not be "wasting" my precious steps exploring a fort when I still had over an hour to get to my B&B. I was on fumes at this point. So I said farewell and carried on, up and down the hills with the Wall as my companion. 

I thought I was absolutely crushing it when I got to Gilsland, where I was staying the night, until I realized my B&B was up a hill. For another 30 minutes. At this point, I openly wept as I climbed that hill. I cried for my feet. I cried for my back, sore from carrying a 25 lb pack of essentials (honestly, I don't have any way to lighten it). And I cried for the fact that I planned this accommodation and didn't consider the distance from the trail, like I had for all the other places. 

But then I got to the B&B and it's a fortified 16th century house that looks like a manor out of those books I love! And my room is gorgeous and the views, swoon. 

So I showered, did laundry, took care of my blisters (no new ones, just re-aggravated the existing ones) then had a wonderful salmon, roast potato, and veggie dinner. Followed by cherry pie with cream. And I feel like a slightly more "me" than when I dragged my dirty, weepy butt up that hill. 

I felt all my emotions today on the walk. But I also learned a few things about myself. I need to take breaks to rest... I will be able to get back up after and keep moving. I also need to eat regularly... I've been so focused on moving along and seeing the sights that I forget to eat anything substantial. Today, between breakfast and dinner, the only thing I ate was a trail mix, a fruit bar, an apple, a chocolate bar and a bag of chips. Not the greatest fuel for this body. 

So tonight, I will rest up. Because I do it all over again tomorrow but this next stage has the most ups and downs of the whole trail, but also some of the most amazing sights! And I'm here. I'm doing this crazy but awesome thing. And I know I can do it. #eatHIKElove