Thursday, September 28, 2023

Day 8 in the UK: Devastation

Day 5 of Hadrian's Wall walk. It's been a devastating day. I woke up from not a great sleep. My feet ached all night long, telling me they had enough. 

So I decided, Sycamore Gap would be the glorious end to my Hadrian's Wall journey. I've covered 68.8km (43 miles) in 30 hours and 17 minutes. Over half of the official distance. I have a huge sense of accomplishment, especially that I covered the most difficult but also the most scenic sections of the trail. 

So Sycamore Gap was going to be my grand finale. But it was anything but. Not sure if it has made international news but last night, in the middle of a storm, someone cut down the beautiful, majestic and iconic Sycamore Tree. I thought it had to be 100 years old but some reports are saying she was 300 years old. Regardless of age, this magnificent icon of the region, of the trail, and for so many people, was brutally murdered while the world slept. And I openly wept for her loss. 

When I was preparing for this journey, Sycamore Gap was the one part that was recognizeable to anyone. I'd just have to say, the sycamore tree between walls, or the tree from Robin Hood, and people knew what I was talking about. It has become a symbol for the trail. But it was so much more. 

I reached Sycamore Gap early morning, when a forestry official had just found the destruction. I was there when locals and hikers stumbled upon the carnage. It was so emotional to talk to others about their memories and experiences with Sycamore Gap tree. It's just devastating for North East England, but also for so many others. 

So, my journey across England along Hadrian's Wall ended on a shattered and devastating note. It was difficult to pull the pin. Just as it was difficult to witness such horrifying violence to an icon. So today did not go how I had planned. Just as the last 5 days hasn't gone to plan. But I'm now in Chollerford, I'm going to give my body the rest it needs. And then I move on to plan C for the rest of my time in the UK. #eathikeLOVE RIP Sycamore Gap Tree









It has been a very difficult day but I also feel a sense of community. So many people from all over the world have been united in our grief and shock. So that has been a powerful moment to witness and be a small part of. I am now comfortably settled in a hotel for 2 nights, so that will give me time to process, heal, and come up with Plan C.

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The afternoon today was spent at Vindolanda Fort, one of the most complete fort settlements along Hadrian's Wall. They have absolutely amazing finds as well as a reconstruction of a turret. There was also an active dig going on. 

So this afternoon had moments of joy. And I met more lovely people.... it's amazing what happens with just a smile or a comment. I had a lovely conversation with Roy and Jo from Sussex about travel and England. Those small interactions are so fulfilling. 

Dinner was a delicious sausage and caramelized onion quiche with dressed leaves, coleslaw and beetroot chutney, and a ginger crumble square and mint aero square. 

I'm content and on the way to healing this slightly shattered soul. Tomorrow is another day. 






 

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